Weekend Wanderings through BsAs

I was determined to make the most of the long Easter weekend since I hadn’t planned a trip outside of the city.  Luckily, I have some friends who are very knowledgeable about Buenos Aires and the different events going on in it.  So I tagged along with them and saw many different places through out the weekend!

1. Club Niceto

The clubs here change their names and venues depending on the day.  We went to Club Niceto on Wednesday night solely because it was free and conveniently close to our friend’s house.  When we got there we were greeted with a congo line of boliche-goers and members of the band Babel Orkesta who was playing that night.  It was really fun dancing to their music since it isn’t typical boliche music. It is hard to describe though, so here’s the link for you to hear for yourself.

Babel Orkestra at Club Niceto

2. Saverio

Mmm yup!

After a long night on Wednesday we decided for something a little calmer and went for ice cream at Saverio.  Little did I know that the sundae I ordered, complete with chocolate and vanilla ice cream, apples, oranges, cherries, mangos, kiwis, and chocolate sauce, would be a portion big enough for two. Still too good to not finish though..

3. Plaza Serrano…during the day!?

Plaza Serrano, a very happening Boliche scene at night, is also packed with people during the day too it turns out.  On Friday we walked through the fería in the Plaza and saw they turn the boliches into clothing stores in the daylight. In one of them I even found the perfect fall jacket (yeah it’s fall here, weird right?)

4. Buenos Aires Capital Mundo del Libro 2011

Following our shopping adventure we walked towards what has to be one of the biggest book fairs EVER. I don’t really have much to compare it to, but really the line went on for blocks, finally turning around a corner and it’s held in multiple convention centers.  We spent the most time exploring books specific to different areas of Argentina and looking at very cool body art.

Merritt, Me, Laura, Sammi

5.  Borges Cultural Center

We didn’t explore here too much, but we did get to see two cool exhibits. I also found Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone en español in the bookstore J I will definitely have to go back too see all that the center has to offer.

6. Recoleta Fería

This is a market I have been to twice before, but it has so many stands to visit that it never gets old. We were all hungry at this point so we bought pan relleno or stuffed bread (mine had mozzarella, green olives, basil, and tomatoes) and then ate them while drinking mate. After we watched Coperistas perform.  My knowledgeable friend Laura informed us that this type of a performance is a combination of dance and martial arts moves and originated in Brazil. Also they can flip over really high ropes!

Coperistas in Recoleta

7. Rose Garden of Palermo

First off, Happy Easter! Easter in Buenos Aires away from my family wasn’t quite the same, but it ended up being a fun day. After lunch with some friends we all went to the Rose Garden of Palermo, El Rosedal.  The park around the garden is huge and packed with people using the biking/running/rollerblading lanes, cruising the artificial lake in paddleboats, or joining in on free aerobics.  We walked through the park as it was closing, taking pictures of the different colored roses and ducks swimming by on the lake.  You can’t actually sit on the grass in the garden without having someone blow a whistle at you and many of the benches were full, so just walking through is fine. Just find a grassy spot in surrounding park for some mate.

Just around the river bend...GIANT waterfalls!: Iguazu Falls, Argentina

My third trip outside of the city of Buenos Aires was great! The main part was going to Iguazu Falls, but we also got to stop at a few other places along the way. We left on Thursday the 14th and traveled the 13 hours by bus to our first stop in Posadas, the capital of Misiones. 

Friday, April 15th

Cows taking a bath

Technically our first stop was at bus station to switch buses to one that could hold the entire group of about 45 people.  After we all met we traveled a short way to Estancia Santa Cecilia, which is a gaucho farm.  We were led to an open pavilion for breakfast of mate cocido (which is a type of mate served cold) and a pastry that was like fried bread with sugar.  Soon our guide for the day showed up with the three gauchos that work the farm.  Gauchos are comparable to the North American cowboy.  From what I've been able to understand in my classes.. They originated in the Pampas and lived off the land, moving with the cattle. Those at the Estancia showed us how they round up the cattle and then the process of injecting some of them with a medicine to get rid of parasites.  After, they had the cattle go through a scale to check their weight and then gave them all a "bath."  I guess I don't really know the best way to wash 50 cows, but theirs seemed to work as good as any.  Basically the process was to have them jump down to a walkway that was filled with water. They had to swim a little then were able to touch and walk/run and slip out.  When they finished showing us the LIVE cows we moved on to look at the process of making leather.  They showed us leather that was drying, leather that was stretching and then the finished product, leather ropes, reins, and other gaucho gear.  Some people were a little turned off after seeing the cute beef cattle taking a bath and then the stretched out leather, but what we saw next might’ve made their stomachs turn—lunch.  The estancia started us off with choripán and lots of veggies.  Then they brought out a huge cut of beef and after that some freshly cooked ribs.  The ribs were cooked between spokes and then they stuck the spokes into the ground and cut portions off for anyone who wanted some right there.  So it was a little rough for some people to see the cattle and then eat who might have been their friends, but honestly, it was worth it. 

The three gauchos who work the farm

After we left for the Jesuit Mission Ruins called San Ignacio Mini.  The Jesuits founded the mission around 1970 and lived there along with some Guaraní natives whom they taught the catholic gospel too.  We walked through the various parts of the ruins, including a massive church, a cemetery, and different houses.  It was strange to imagine people really living and working there at one time and to think about those who found it after it was abandoned.  When we left the ruins women and children selling random handicrafts and plants greeted us.  I passed up the chance though and headed for the bus, which then took us the four extra hours to our hotel in Iguazu Falls.

our whole group

We arrived at the Hotel Saint George where upon check in, they gave us fruit smoothies. During our stay we also had dinner and breakfast buffets there. They also offered a chilly pool and lukewarm hot tub as well as a ping-pong table.  The next day we were headed for the falls!

Saturday, April 16

We woke up early excited for what was said to be a real “North American breakfast.” However, we were all a little disappointed when the eggs turned out to be hard-boiled and the sausage was really hot dogs cut up and put into some sort of sauce. They did have cereal, milk, pastries, and a lot of fruit though, so still a good breakfast overall.  

Afterwards we left for the waterfalls (cataratas) of Iguazu.  It wasn’t long before we were there, seeing toucans, coaties (a member of the raccoon family), and tons of butterflies.  We started on the Green Trail and it wasn’t long until we heard the waterfalls.  When you first see them, you want to take a million pictures, trying to capture every part of what makes them so amazing (this is impossible to do, by the way).  But then you walk a little more, get closer, and feel like you have to take a million more pictures because they’re even more impressive from that view.  The waterfalls are hard to describe and my pictures don’t do them justice, but hopefully you all get an idea of how incredible they are to see.  So incredible actually that Iguazu Falls is in the running towards becoming one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature (click here to vote!).

We walked to different areas of the falls, at one spot getting close enough to be drenched by the huge waterfall above us.  We were also given the opportunity to go on a boat ride around the falls.  After getting fit with life jackets and waterproof bags we loaded onto boats and headed towards the first waterfall.  We drove near the bottom of two separate falls, getting drenched by their mist. At one waterfall it was difficult to actually look anywhere but down because of the water falling onto us.  We got off of the boats drenched and in my case with out a change of clothes or shoes.  So, soaking wet, I walked back with the group for some lunch and then a short train ride to the start of a trail leading to The Devil’s Throat (Garganta del Diablo). Sounds ominous right?? To get there you walk on a metal walkways over water and the occasional small island.  I really don’t know how to explain how awesome and impressive it is, so here a couple extra pictures and a video to give you a better idea..

At the Devil's Throat

La Garganta del Diablo

(Not the best video recording, sorry!)

Sunday, April 17

You can catch an armadillo with that!

With a check out time of 10:45 we were able to sleep in a little more before packing up and heading down to our last Hotel Saint George breakfast.  After eating, we went to the local Guaraní community.  We took big safari trucks (which reminded me of Cabo Polonio) to navigate the dirt roads of the village.  When driving in we saw some women and children swimming and washing clothes.  The kids all smiled and waved as we drove by.  Our guide Luís started by showing us their most popular crops and then led us to a woman’s hut.  The hut was small consisting of only a small fire pit and a roof.  We all felt a little strange and intrusive coming onto these people’s land and viewing the way they live.  Especially after hearing they are generally very shy and timid.  However, Luís told us that they have to give tours and sell handmade crafts in order to support their community.  They used to be able to move with the animals they hunted, but now they have to rely on local supermarkets.  They realize that in order for the tribe to survive they have to adapt in certain ways.  The children are taught Spanish as well as their own native language and they have a medical practitioner visit weekly.  It’s a sad reality, but they are still holding onto their own customs and traditions as well as learning how to function in other societies.

We ended our tour first by hearing the Guaraní children sing some songs in their native language. Luís told us that they really enjoy doing it and it shows; they all did a great job.  We had a chance to buy some of the hand made crafts and then loaded back on to the trucks, passing more smiling, waving kids on our way out.

Luckily, we skipped the hours of traveling by bus and flew back to Buenos Aires. That night Hebe’s family came over and we had empanadas for dinner, so great way to end the weekend. All in all, it was a very fun trip and maybe my last for a little while.  I’m hoping to travel to El Calafate some time before it gets too cold, but that’s still up in the air.  In the mean time I’ll be living the life in Buenos Aires and maybe posting entries about the little things I do around here. This week being Semana Santa is a big one (the biggest in Argentina) and most people go away for the long weekend.  I however, am not, but plan on putting my time to good use and getting to know the city better.  Until next time, ¡Felices Pascuas!

San Rafael, Mendoza, Argentina

Two weekends ago I traveled to San Rafael, Mendoza with my program CEA.  There were about 45 of us on the trip to Mendoza, which is considered the wine country of Argentina.  There are vineyards everywhere and is located near the Andes. In fact where we stayed, Cabañas del Cerro, was located right in between the mountains and next to a river. So gorgeous. 


Friday, April 1st (HAPPY BIRTHDAY DAD! :))

View outside our cabañas

Success!

We got to San Rafael at about 8:00AM after a 13-hour bus ride.  I was able to sleep most of the time and woke up to an amazing view of the sunrise over the mountains.  As we kept going the view changed, but was still just as beautiful.  We drove between mountains then got to our cabañas.  We had a small breakfast of medialunas, coffee, and Tang, and then had a few hours to explore before lunch.  Some of us went for a walk in the hopes of climbing a mountain.  We all kind of split up, but a group of us ended up crossing the river in our bare feet, then walking through this really dense brush to get the base of the mountain.  On our second try, we found a way up the mountain and climbed to the top. It wasn't the tallest mountain around, but it was a great view from the top and a work out getting there!  We found a better place to walk down the back of the mountain and then walked in a dried up riverbed to get back to the big river.  Apparently they had a very dry winter with little rain and snow so all of the rivers are very low at the moment.  We all crossed the river and made it back to the cabañas with lots of scrapes on our legs and hands, but feeling accomplished, definitely worth it.  

View from the mountain we climbed

Beach at the reservoir

We got back and had a lunch of noodles with a choice of both meat and red sauce or white and red sauce mixed.  They offered a great salad bar with lots of different veggies and fresh bread with every meal.  So after we ate dinner and an ice cream dessert, we all put on swimsuits and headed off for our program planned "adventure."  No one really knew exactly what we were doing, but we loaded into two small Extremo buses and started to wind our way up the mountain.  Literally winding.  We got to the top and were at a giant blue reservoir held by the dam.  It is such an amazing sight and the water is such a vivid color.  We all got loaded up with lifejackets and paddles and walked down some winding stairs to the lake.  We were split into small rafting boats and paddled across to a nice sandy beach.  Since the lake is so deep, to swim we had to wear lifejackets.  It was fine though because the water was so cold we didn't stay in long.  I went to walk around with a couple people.  There was a big blue house on the top of a dune so we walked to it and ended up climbing onto the porch.  There were some broken windows and the rooms looked really messy with old sheets and mattresses so it was obviously abandoned.  I asked a guide later and he said people stay there during the summer season.  After that though we ran back across the burning sand and laid out for a little while until Gabby, our program coordinator said it was time to go.  Back at the cabañas we went to the local supermarket to get some drinks for later and then headed to dinner.  We were served chicken and mashed potatoes and of course, fresh salad bar.  After dinner we went to another cabaña and hung out on the balcony talking with kids from the program. We ended up moving to the pavement down on the ground.  The sky view there, like in Cabo Polonio, is amazing.  Also like in Cabo, we spent the night just sitting outside looking at the stars and talking.  Such a great way to end a day. 


Saturday, April 2nd

About to go rappelling- I was a little nervous..

Rubio Winery

I woke up around 9:00AM for breakfast- medialunas, cereal, fruit and milk!! Such a nice surprise to have milk to drink with breakfast. I hadn't realized how little milk I drink here or how much I missed it.  It tasted pretty much like normal milk too, which most of the time, it doesn’t. After breakfast we had the option to go zip lining and rappelling or hanging out at the hotel.  I opted for the zip lining since I had never been before.  I was expecting like a long zip line, but was a little disappointed when it lasted maybe five seconds and was over a small area.  It was still cool to go though, and the rappelling made up for it!  I was very nervous before going down, hands shaking and everything, but I made it down safely.  It wasn't a hug mountainside, but walking backwards down it was such a rush!  We got back with enough time to jump in the pool (freezing) and sit out for a while before lunch.  After lunch we left for a couple winery tours.  Unfortunately we didn't get to do real wine tasting at the wineries, but it was still cool to see the rows and rows of grapes and then the process they go through to be made into that delicious Argentine wine.  The first winery we went to, Suter was bigger and more commercial.  They have a very deep basement with wine dating back to 1924.  Before we left we had the chance to buy some of their wine.  You could buy indivdual bottles for as little as 8 pesos (2 USD) or six bottles for about 65 pesos (17 USD!). I may have picked up a couple souvenirs for family back home. :)

Rubio Malbec grapes

Next we stopped at the Rubio family winery.  This one was smaller and family owned.  They had a bunch of animals, like pigs, chickens, geese, peacocks, and even a llama. They also had little baby pigs running around, very cute.  We had a small tour and tasted some of the grapes.  They all have seeds, but are so sweet and delicious. No wonder they make great wine!  We had time again to buy some things at the store- dried fruit, jam, wine, chocolate, and vegetables.  We left the wineries pretty tired and ready for teatime.  That was another thing we got each day.  In between lunch and dinner we had "tea time" with coffee, tea, and different kinds of pie.  After tea time that day some of us went on a walk until it started getting dark then headed back to the cabañas to hang out before dinner.  Dinner that night was pizza with ham, olives, and cheese and then ice cream for dessert.  That night was a girl in the program's 21st birthday so we had a little party with a small bonfire.  


Sunday, April 3rd

View of the reservoir

Our last day in Mendoza we got up for breakfast around 9:00 then went out to the same reservoir for a boat ride around it and more beach time.  This was an optional adventure so not every one came along.  The boat we were on, called a catamaran, had a roof you could sit on during the tour.  So of course, people in my program turned it into a dance party when the guide was done talking and turned on some music.  It was a beautiful day and just an overall fun morning.  We got back to the hotel for lunch then had a long time to just hag out since our bus returning to Buenos Aires didn't leave until 7:00PM.  We all hung out by the pool and some people got professional massages by the river.  I didn't get one, but how relaxing!? After a while everyone packed up their stuff and we had one last teatime, complete with a round of "Feliz Cumpleaños" for the two birthday girls in the group.  Then it was time to load up the bus and say goodbye to the fresh air and mountains of San Rafael, Mendoza. 

All of CEA group 2!